Alameda Central—Just beyond the Palacio de Bellas Artes on Avenida Juarez is the Alameda Central, a lovely green oasis in the heart of the city. Its focal point is the marble monument honoring 19th-century president Benito Juarez. The Alameda is particularly festive during the Christmas season, with colorful displays of huge helium balloons, myriad gift and food stands, and many Santas and Wise Men around to have their pictures taken with children. For an artistic view of the park, go to the nearby Museo Mural Diego Rivera and see Rivera's mural Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park, which was salvaged from the earthquake-damaged Hotel del Prado.

Bosque de Chapultepec—Chapultepec Park is 2,100 acres/850 hectares of woods, lakes with paddleboats, hiking trails, playgrounds, botanical gardens, amusement parks, a zoo and excellent museums. There are often toy-and-balloon vendors, dancers in ancient costumes and performing voladores (men on ropes "flying" in circles as they unwind from the top of a tall pole). The park is open daily 5 am-5 pm. Free. It's divided into three sections. The main entrance for the primera seccion (first section) is on Reforma two blocks north of the Chapultepec Metro station. Phone 5515-2697.

Desierto de los Leones—Translated, this means Desert of the Lions, but there are no lions there, nor is it a desert. The park was named for a family whose surname was Leon. It is a large, forested park west of Mexico City, which can be reached on a bypass on the highway to Toluca (it's also accessible by tour bus). It's a lovely spot for picnics, but it's high in the mountains, so take a sweater. Midway into the park, there's a convent, with well-kept gardens, underground passages and a small restaurant. There's no specific gate to the park. It's advisable to go only during daylight hours and leave by sunset.

Sullivan Park—This park hosts the Jardin del Arte (Garden of Art), a delightful open-air art show. This is a good place to purchase watercolors of scenes of Mexico, or sculpture and oil paintings. (Remember that artwork is duty free.) The artwork is displayed on Sundays 11 am-6 pm, and there's usually a produce market held just south of the park. Northwest of the Reforma-Insurgentes intersection, between downtown and La Zona Rosa.

Xochimilco—The famed floating gardens are due south, about 12 mi/19 km from the Zocalo. They were created by the Xochimilco Indians, who constructed within a network of canals little islands on which fruits, vegetables and flowers were grown. Today, you can rent small, flat-bottomed barges (similar to gondolas) and be poled along the canals for a delightful experience. Aside from passenger barges, there are barges that carry bands of mariachis or marimbas ready to play requests (for a price), as well as vendors selling tacos, soft drinks and flowers. There are nine different docks from which you can rent a barge. Prices are M$130 an hour for a barge holding 12 people, M$100 for eight people and M$80 for four people. A guided ecological tour for M$100 an hour leaves from the Cuemanco dock. We recommend that you book this or other tours to Xochimilco with a travel agent or tour company. If you're driving, take the Viaducto Tialpan to the south and follow the signs to Xochimilco. The telephone number of the tourism office in Xochimilco is 5676-0810.

RELIGIOUS AND SPIRITUAL SITES

Basilica de la Virgen de Guadalupe—This shrine to Mexico's patron saint, about 4 mi/6 km north of the Zocalo, is one of the holiest places in the country. It is built on the site where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a mestizo, Juan Diego, in 1531. Her image was miraculously imprinted on Juan Diego's homespun cloak, which he had filled with roses to take to the bishop—it hangs in the church, behind the altar. After investigation by the prelate, it was decided to build the shrine, and the Virgin of Guadalupe was declared Patroness of Mexico. The original church was built in 1709. When it began to sink into the swampy subsoil, a new basilica was constructed in the same plaza and consecrated in 1976. The pope said mass there in January 1999. Visitors are welcome at any time of the day; no admission is charged. Plaza Hidalgo 1, Colonia Villa de Guadalupe (near the La Villa Metro station). Phone 5577-6022.

Catedral Metropolitana—This is the largest cathedral in Latin America, begun in 1567 and constructed over 250 years. Built in a fanciful baroque style known as churrigueresque, it's filled with exquisite details—sculptures, paintings, carvings—and has many small, lavishly embellished chapels. It also boasts the largest organ in the world—concerts are given on special occasions. Restoration work is continually under way inside, so expect some scaffolding to obstruct views. Also, the cathedral is sinking, which may cause you to feel a bit dizzy when walking down the nave. Open daily 10 am-8 pm. Free. On the north side of the Zocalo. Phone 5522-3033.

SCHOOLS AND CAMPUSES

Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico—The UNAM, in the southern part of the city, is the oldest university in the Western Hemisphere. Construction on the current 8,000-acre/325-hectare campus, called University City, was started in 1950. The campus consists of more than 80 buildings, the most notable being the Central Library, with its four famous exterior mosaic murals by Juan O'Gorman. The Central Library is visible from Avenida Insurgentes Sur, in front of the Olympic Stadium, which was built for the 1968 Summer Olympics and has an unfinished mural by Diego Rivera. Follow Insurgentes Sur about 10 mi/16 km from La Zona Rosa. Phone 5622-0532.

THEME AND AMUSEMENT PARKS

La Feria Amusement Park—Tuesday-Friday 11 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-9 pm. M$145 for all-ride pass. In the second section of Chapultepec Park. Phone 5230-2121.

Six Flags—A cultural theme park for children, open Tuesday-Thursday 10 am-8 pm, Friday-Sunday 10 am-7 pm. M$180 for all rides and shows, free for children less than 3 ft/90 cm tall. 1 mi/1.5 km from the Periferico Sur Highway on the Picacho al Ajusco Highway in the far southern part of the city. Phone 5728-7222.

ZOOS AND WILDLIFE

Atlantis Marine Park—This park presents dolphin and seal shows and has an aquarium. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm, daily during school vacations and holidays. M$20. Third section of Chapultepec Park, entrance on Constituyentes. Phone 5273-2176 and 5271-8618.

Zoologico de Chapultepec—The Chapultepec Zoo boasts the first panda born in captivity in the world. Free. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. Crowded on weekends. Phone 5553-6229 or 5553-6263.

Shopping

In Mexico City, you'll find everything from well-established department stores to trendy shops, from unusual antique shops to colorful artisans markets. Fixed prices prevail in upscale shops and department stores, but you're expected to bargain in the markets. Never pay the first price asked; make a counter offer of at least 50% lower, and you may eventually arrive at a price that seems fair to all. Unless you're dealing with a reliable store, don't allow them to ship purchases. Keep all bills of sale to show to customs when you return home. Many handcrafted items are duty free for import into developed nations. Even if a duty is charged, it's probable that you've still picked up a bargain. Some imported goods, such as clothing, have lower prices than those found at department store sales back home.

Trendy shopping areas include Polanco and La Zona Rosa. The Mercado la Ciudadela and Bazar Sabado (Saturdays in San Angel) are popular crafts and souvenir markets. The Monte de Piedad, the national pawnshop, is also worth a browse.

SHOPPING HOURS

Typical hours are 10 am-7 pm; large department stores remain open until 8 pm. Smaller stores often close between 2 and 4 pm, then stay open till 8 pm.

ANTIQUE STORES

Coloniart—Specializes in antique furniture, paintings and sculpture. Everything is worth seeing and worth the price. Monday-Friday 10:30 am-3 pm and 4-7 pm, Saturday 11 am-2 pm. Estocolmo 367 (corner of Hamburgo), La Zona Rosa. Call manager for personalized attention: 5514-4799 or 5525-8928.

Galeria Windsor—An outstanding gallery with a distinguished collection of such unusual items as pre-Columbian jade, antique boxes from the colonial era and tin retablos (votive paintings). Monday-Friday 11 am-7 pm, Saturday 11 am-2 pm. Hamburgo 224, La Zona Rosa. Phone 5525-8342.

BOOKSTORES

English-language books in Mexico sell at prices approximately 30% higher than U.S. prices. The American Book Store and Libros, Libros, Libros sell English books and have English-speaking personnel.

American Book Store—Monday-Friday 9:30 am-7 pm. Bolivar 123. Phone 5512-7279 or 5512-0306.

Libros, Libros, Libros—Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. Monte Ararat 220 (in the residential zone called Las Lomas). Phone 5540-4778.

DEPARTMENT STORES

Liverpool and Palacio de Hierro are two large department stores. The original stores are in the downtown area. Both have branches in suburban shopping malls.

Liverpool—Modern and spacious, with a large parking area in the building, a restaurant and a gourmet food department. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-8 pm. Mariano Escobedo 425. Phone 5328-6400.

Palacio de Hierro—A very elegant store with European decor. Big selection of U.S. and European clothing. Monday-Friday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday 11 am-8 pm. Durango 230. Phone 5525-9000.

Sears—In Mexico, it's a top-end department store with a wide selection of items. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-8 pm. Av. Ejercito Nacional 980, Polanco. Phone 5557-0055.

GALLERIES

Many of the galleries are concentrated in La Zona Rosa, Polanco and surrounding neighborhoods. They receive clients by appointment during set hours.

Galeria Lourdes Chumacero—Features paintings and drawings from Mexican artists. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm. Estocolmo 34, La Zona Rosa. No phone.

Galeria Oscar Roman—Offers an excellent collection of up-and-coming Mexican painters. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7:30 pm, Saturday 11 am-3 pm. Julio Verne 14, Polanco. Phone 5280-0436.

Misrachi Gallery—One of Mexico City's oldest and finest galleries. It features works by renowned contemporary Mexican artists. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-2 pm. La Fontaine 243, Polanco. Phone 5250-4105.

Tere Haas Galeria—Fine contemporary art—it specializes in bronze sculptures and figurative art. Very knowledgeable personnel. Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and 3-7 pm, Saturday 11 am-5 pm. Genova 2c, La Zona Rosa. Phone 5511-6134.

MALLS AND SHOPPING AREAS

Centro Santa Fe—The city's premier shopping center (and the largest in Latin America). It boasts 285 shops: department stores, chic boutiques, brand-name sporting goods stores, cosmetic shops, restaurants, play areas for children and 10 movie houses. At Vasco de Quiroga 3800, in the western part of the city at the beginning of the Mexico City-Toluca highway. It's about a half-hour's drive from the Angel monument. There is no nearby Metro station—call a taxi to take you there (do not hail a taxi from the street).

La Zona Dorada—A fashionable shopping area in Polanco. It's bordered by Campos Eliseos on the south and Presidente Masaryk on the north, Moliere on the west and Arquimides on the east. Most of the shops are on Avenida Presidente Masaryk, which is beginning to look like Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles. Typical hours are Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm.

La Zona Rosa—A great concentration of top shops, ranging from New York-style chic boutiques to stores displaying handcrafted silver. Borders of La Zona Rosa are these: Paseo de la Reforma on the north and Liverpool on the south, Insurgentes on the east and Florencia on the west.

Plaza Loreto—A trendy shopping mall on the site of a former paper mill. It has 38 shops with a wide variety of goods. Art exhibits are mounted in the patios, and there is an open-air venue for cultural events. Also on the premises is the Soumayo Museum, which has a permanent exhibit of Mexican art. There are many good fast-food places, but for more elegant dining in the area, the restaurant Taberna de Leon (in the former mill manager's home) is well worth a visit. Altamirano 46, Colonia Tizapan, San Angel (about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). There's no nearby Metro stop, so call for a taxi (do not hail one from the street). Mall open daily 10 am-10 pm.

MARKETS

Bazar Sabado—Housed in a colonial mansion where selected artisans display their work every Saturday 10 am-7 pm. This is truly quality work and a good place to buy gifts—a visit there should be a must. Live music and a buffet served in an outdoor courtyard. Plaza San Jacinto 11, in San Angel (about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5616-0082.

Lagunilla—Popularly known as the thieves market. As the story goes, you can go there Sunday morning and buy back what was stolen from your house on Saturday night! It's more pleasant to go early on Saturday or Sunday before it gets too crowded. You can find antiques, jewelry, old books and lots of good junk. Watch your wallet and purse, though. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 8 am-6 pm. It's on the corner of Eje 1 Norte and Brazil (downtown). No phone.

Mercado de Curiosidades Mexicanos San Juan—This handicraft venue is open daily 9 am-6:30 pm. Vendors tend to quote high initially, knowing that most of their customers will bargain with them. At Ayuntamiento and Dolores (downtown). No phone.

Mercado Insurgentes—More than 200 stalls filled with crafts, silver and gold jewelry (which is sold by weight) and Mexican dresses. Small food booths line the back of the indoor market. The food smells and looks wonderful. Some merchants speak English. Don't forget to bargain. Open daily 10 am-7 pm. In La Zona Rosa, with entrances on Genova and Liverpool between Florencia and Amberes. No phone.

Mercado la Ciudadela—A favorite with tourists. You can stroll around the gridwork of shops and open walkways surrounding its courtyard and purchase almost any type of handicraft or artisan work. The merchants are very courteous and do not pester you to buy from them. They expect you to bargain (but not too much, because prices are fair). Daily 10:30 am-6:30 pm. On the corner of Balderas just north of the Ciudadela (Metro: Balderas). Phone 5512-5064.

UNIQUE OR UNUSUAL

Fonart—A government-sponsored store for the promotion of handicrafts. Displays a good selection and prices are fixed. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. Ave. Juarez 89 (downtown). Phone 5521-0171.

Los Castillo—An outstanding store run by the well-known Castillo family of Taxco. Its silver, copper and gold items are definitely worth your examination. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-3 pm. Amberes 41, La Zona Rosa. Phone 5511-6198.

Monte de Piedad—The national pawn shop (in translation, "Mountain of Compassion") was opened in 1777 as a charitable organization and still helps finance school construction and retirement homes with its profits. Everything from beautiful jewelry and antiques to electrical equipment may be purchased there. Monday-Friday 10 am-4 pm, Saturday 10 am-1 pm. Facing the Zocalo across from the Metropolitan Cathedral. Phone 5521-6176.

Sanborn's—Shopping tips for Mexico City would not be complete without mentioning the Sanborn's chain, founded by the Sanborn family in 1903. These stores guarantee quality and fair prices and are very popular with residents and tourists alike. Most of the stores have drugstores, restaurants, book and magazine sections (where U.S. newspapers are sold) and bakeries. Daily 7 am-1 am. Main branch is in the Casa del Azulejos (House of Tiles), Madero 4 (downtown), phone 5512-9820, but there are 30 stores in all areas of the city.

Tamacani—Sells colorful handwoven rugs, wall hangings and pillows—authentic and impressive. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-2 pm. Varsovia 51, La Zona Rosa. Phone 5207-3720.

Tane—Exceptional silverwork and exquisite jewelry. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-3 pm. Two locations: Amberes 70, La Zona Rosa, phone 5511-9429, and Edgar Allan Poe 68, Polanco, phone 5281-4775.

Dining

Mexicans place great importance on dining, and the national cuisine is available everywhere, from ubiquitous taco vendors to upscale restaurants. You'll also find cuisines from every part of the world, especially in La Zona Rosa and Polanco.

The main meal is usually eaten between 2 and 4 pm at a leisurely pace. A good deal of business can be conducted during those long lunch hours. Most restaurants remain open into the evening—you may dine as early as you choose, but don't expect to see many other diners until 9 pm. Typical hours for breakfast are 8-11 am. Many of the large hotels offer sumptuous breakfast buffets and weekend brunches.

Not-to-be-missed treats representing authentic Mexican cuisine are tacos de pollo (chicken wrapped in tortillas), carne asada (thin slices of broiled beef filet) and enchiladas suizas (chicken-filled tortillas, covered with a delicious sauce of tomatillos, sour cream and cheese). If you see chile rellenos (poblano peppers stuffed with cheese or meat) with a walnut cream sauce, be sure to order them! Also try sopa de tortilla (chicken-tomato broth with strips of fried tortillas): very tasty and not too spicy. And be aware that Mexicans sip their tequila—they may be appalled if you gulp yours down in one shot!

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than M$85; $$ = M$85-$175; $$$ = M$176-$425.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Cicero Centenario—In the heart of the Historic Center and housed in a restored colonial mansion with stained-glass windows and paneled walls. Superb Mexican cuisine. Recommended dishes include the filet Centenario in red wine sauce, sea bass a l'orange, and chicken breasts stuffed with a Mexican delicacy called huitlacoche (a delectable corn fungus). Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am, Sunday 1-7 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. Republica de Cuba 79, Mexico City. Phone 5521-2934.

Del Lago Chapultepec—An outstanding romantic dining spot with a majestic fountain and unique modern architecture overlooking a lake. Specialties of the house are prime rib and grilled meats. Daily 1-6 pm for lunch, 7:30 pm-midnight for dinner. Sunday 1:30-5 pm. Reservations required. Coat and tie required at lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. On Lago Mayor in Chapultepec Park, Mexico City. Phone 5515-95868.

La Petaluma—A popular restaurant, located in the fashionable section of Polanco and very much in vogue right now. Spacious dining area with large windows. It has an open kitchen, so diners can watch their international specialties being prepared. Recommended are the charcoal-broiled tuna and the filet of beef Sichuan. Valet parking. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Masaryk 513, Mexico City. Phone 5281-4020.

La Valentina—Nouvelle Mexican cuisine in hacienda-style decor. A favorite dish is the chicken breast with chile chipotle sauce. Also delicious are the sopa de cilantro and pollo con mole tamarindo. Trio music in the evenings. Daily 1 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. On the second floor of Plaza Mazaryk, a posh shopping center. Masaryk 393, Mexico City. Phone 5282-2812.

Los Girasoles—Light nouvelle Mexican cuisine in one of the trendiest restaurants in town. Meats and fish blended with exotic herbs. The adventurous may try fried grasshoppers or maguey worms—traditional pre-Hispanic fare that is making a comeback in the city. Tropical fruit desserts. Monday-Saturday 1:30 pm-1 am, Sunday 1:30-8 pm. Reservations suggested for lunch. $$. Most major credit cards. Plaza Manuel Tolsa on Calle Tacuba, Mexico City. Phone 5510-0630.

Maxim's de Paris—An outstanding restaurant, with the same traditional elegance and fine cuisine of the Parisian edition. The tables are set with Limoges china, and the service is excellent. Specialties are Dover sole, poached salmon and roast breast of duck with apples. Live string music. Monday-Friday 1:30 pm-11 pm, Saturday 8-11 pm. Reservations suggested. Coat and tie required. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the Presidente Inter-Continental. Campos Eliseos 218, Mexico City. Phone 5281-3687.

San Angel Inn—Located in the colonial San Angel area to the south, this is a beautifully restored 18th-century hacienda. Elegant dining rooms surround a flower-filled courtyard. Specialties include pepper steak, pork loin and roast duck. A delightful dessert is Bavarian cream topped with fresh strawberries. This is the place to indulge in a margarita, served from individual silver pitchers. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am and Sunday to 9:30 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. Diego Rivera 50, San Angel, Mexico City. Phone 5616-1527.

ASIAN

Chez Wok—Haute Chinese cuisine in impressive surroundings, with excellent service. The extensive menu features glazed duck and filet of beef in orange sauce. Monday-Saturday 1:30-5 pm and 7:30 pm-midnight, Sunday 1:30-5 pm. $$$. Reservations recommended. Tennyson 177, Polanco. Phone 5281-3410.

Hunan—An elegant Chinese restaurant, specializing in Hunan-style cuisine. Located in Lomas, a choice residential spot. Pretty decor—a dining area surrounded by lush greenery. Monday-Saturday 1:30 pm-midnight, Sunday 1:30-6 pm. $$$. Paseo de la Reforma 2210 (corner of Ixtlan), Lomas de Chapultepec (about 5 mi/8 km west of the city center). Phone 5596-5011.

Luau—Located in La Zona Rosa, this is a traditional favorite for Chinese food, Cantonese style. Authentic cuisine and decor, which includes a pond and fountain. Monday-Thursday noon-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-11:45 pm, Sunday noon-9:45 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. Niza 38. Phone 525-7474.

Mandarin House—Features Chinese food for delivery and takeout. A favorite is kung po (slices of chicken breast fried with coriander, peanuts, scallions and a special sauce). Monday-Saturday 1:30-11 pm, Sunday 1:30-7 pm. Time for delivery 45 minutes. $$$. Most major credit cards. Cofre de Perote 205-b. Phone 5520-9728 and 5520-9870.

Suntory—Some of the best Japanese food in Mexico. You can eat in one of the private dining rooms, the teppanyaki room (where your meal is cooked on a grill in front of you) or at the sushi bar. Monday-Thursday 1-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 1-11:30 pm, Sunday 1-9 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. Two locations: Torres Adalid 14 (in the south), phone 5536-9432, and Montes Urales 555 (in Lomas Chapultepec), phone 5202-4711.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Casa del Azulejos—The famous House of Tiles is a wonderful place for a traditional Mexican breakfast, such as a plate of sliced papaya, huevos rancheros (eggs on a tortilla smothered in tomatoes and onions), cafe con leche (hot milk with a bit of coffee in a tall glass) and fresh Mexican sweet rolls. The restaurant has a gorgeous colonial interior filled with Mexican tiles, high ceilings and murals gracing the old-fashioned stairwells. Owned by the Sanborn's chain. Open daily 7:30 am-1 am. No reservations. $. Most major credit cards. Madero 4 (in the Historic Center). Phone 5512-9820.

La Terraza—The Sunday breakfast buffet is both inexpensive and splendid at the terrace restaurant on the rooftop of the Hotel Majestic. Sitting at its umbrella-shaded tables gives you an unparalleled view of action in the huge Zocalo below. (This is also the ideal spot for a drink later in the day. Go around 5 pm and watch soldiers lower the gigantic flag in the middle of the Zocalo.) Daily 7 am-midnight. $. Hotel Majestic, Madero 73. Phone 5521-8600.

FRENCH

Fouquet's de Paris—Straight from its famed Parisian namesake, with the same French cuisine, atmosphere and service. It's one of the capital's outstanding restaurants. Excellent wines. Soft music after 1:30 pm. Monday-Friday 7 am-11 am, 1:30-5:30 pm, 7:30-11 pm, Saturday 8 pm-midnight, closed Sunday. Jacket and tie at night. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. Mariano Escobedo 700 (at the Camino Real Hotel). Phone 5203-2121, ext. 8500.

Les Celebrites—Very elegant and popular spot in the Hotel Nikko in Polanco. Specialties include smoked salmon and rack of lamb. Piano lounge. Monday-Saturday 7-11 am, 1:30-4:30 pm and 7:30-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Campos Eliseos 204, Polanco. Phone 5282-2222.

Les Moustaches—Elegant French-Continental atmosphere in a European-style, turn-of-the-century mansion. The main dining room is a leafy covered garden. Specialties include tongue Veronique in a champagne and fresh grape sauce and trout marinated in white wine. Lavish dessert menu. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight. Coat and tie. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. Rio Sena 88. Phone 5533-3390.

MEXICAN

Cafe de Tacuba—Among the city's best-established restaurants, with handsome Mexican decor (hand-painted antique tiles, 18th-century paintings). Enchiladas Tacuba (chicken-filled tortillas covered with a spinach and green poblano pepper sauce) are especially delicious; so are the chalupas a la poblana. The downtown restaurant has spirited mariachi music on Wednesday nights and estudiantina (student) singers Wednesday-Sunday. Daily 8 am (great choice for a real Mexican breakfast) to 11:30 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Tacuba 28, Mexico City. Phone 5518-4950.

Fonda del Recuerdo—Lively marimba music has folks tapping their feet as heaping platters of huachinango a la Veracruzana (sea bass Veracruz style) emerge from the kitchen of this seafood emporium. Squid, crab and lobster dishes, plus the smooth-but-lethal toritos—tequila mixed with exotic fruit juices—have made this one of the most popular spots in town since it opened more than 20 years ago. Monday-Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Reservations advised. $$. Most major credit cards. About 10 blocks east of the Camino Real Hotel. Bahia de las Palmas 37, Mexico City. Phone 5260-1292.

La Cava—A magnificent restaurant with a mix of Mexican and Mediterranean decor. You may dine next to a fountain in a lovely patio area. The menu has excellent Mexican and international dishes; some favorites are the quail and the trout amandine. Live piano and string music. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am, Sunday 1-6 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the south, near Avenida San Jeronimo and just before University City. Insurgentes Sur 2465, Mexico City. Phone 5550-0852.

La Hacienda de los Morales—A lovely, restored colonial building that used to be a hacienda in what is now the posh Polanco neighborhood. It has a beautifully kept garden and a large courtyard with Mexican decor. Excellent Continental and Mexican cuisine. The shrimp in tequila sauce is delicious, and don't miss the cold walnut soup. Live piano and violin music. Daily 1 pm-midnight. Reservations required. Coat and tie required. $$$. Vazquez de Mella 525, Los Morales, Mexico City. Phone 5281-4703.

Tamalli—Specializes in tamales and offers a broad variety. Takeout only. Monday-Saturday 8 am-9 pm. $. American Express and cash. Emilio Castelar 227, Polanco. Phone 5281-6087.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Anderson's—Extremely popular with residents and tourists alike, this restaurant near La Zona Rosa is small but full of action and usually crowded. Very informal atmosphere, friendly service, good Mexican specialties grilled and served with sauces. Try the barbecued ribs. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-6 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. Main branch: Paseo de la Reforma 382 (near the Angel monument). Phone 5208-2150.

El Meson del Perro Andaluz—Named after the movie by Luis Bunuel, this place with its outdoor terrace is the perfect site for people watching. It's situated right in the center of La Zona Rosa, near many other small restaurants in a pedestrian mall. Try one of the Spanish dishes—paella or fabada (bean casserole)—or the salmon pasta. It gets crowded on weekends. Open daily noon-1 am. No reservations. $-$$. Copenhague 29 (in La Zona Rosa). Phone 5533-5306.

Sir Winston Churchill's—A remodeled Tudor-style mansion with wood paneling, beamed ceilings and garden. Traditional British fare. Favorites are prime rib with Yorkshire pudding and steak-and-kidney pie. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am. Reservations suggested. Though not required, a coat and tie would make you feel comfortable there. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avila Camacho 67 (in Polanco). Phone 5280-6070.

Nightlife

Nightlife in Mexico City is lively and varied—supper clubs with excellent floor shows, discos, piano bars and bars that offer traditional Mexican music. The most popular districts for nightlife are Polanco, San Angel, Coyoacan and, as of late, Condesa (a residential neighborhood a few minutes by car south of La Zona Rosa). La Zona Rosa continues to be a nighttime hot spot, though not as upscale as Polanco, for example.

In view of the crime and the lack of security in some places, visitors to Mexico City are enjoying the nightlife provided by their hotels: live music in attractive lobbies. Another option is nightclub tours, which are convenient and inexpensive—you're picked up at your hotel and brought back by midnight for approximately US$70 per person, including a drink and dinner.

Nightlife starts late in Mexico and ends late: Nine o'clock would be the suggested hour for dinner at a nightclub, and the shows usually don't start until 11 pm. When drinking alcohol, remember that, because of the high altitude, one drink in Mexico City can have the effect of two at lower altitudes. Also remember to keep your wallet well guarded.

DANCE CLUBS/NIGHTCLUBS

Antillanos—This is the place to go for salsa dancing: large dance floor, crowded, but lots of fun. Thursday-Saturday 9 pm-3:30 am. Reservations recommended. Cover charge is M$80. You may also order dinner (M$75 for soup and a main course). Most major credit cards except Diners Club. Francisco Pimentel 78 (about 10 minutes by car from La Zona Rosa). Phone 5592-0439.

El Gran Leon—Old-time salsa bandleader Pepe Avelavo and his orchestra provide fine listening and dance music in a traditional club setting. Other invited groups take turns on stage Wednesday-Saturday starting at 8:30 pm. Cover charge M$50. Dinner served. Most major credit cards except Diners Club and Discover. Reservations not required. Queretaro 225, Colonia Roma (slightly south of La Zona Rosa). Phone 5564-7110.

La Nueva Opera Bar—This 19th-century establishment has long been a favorite restaurant and bar, serving international fare. Their margaritas are reputed to be the best in town. Part of its charm is a bullet hole in the ceiling—the bullet is said to have come from Pancho Villa's revolver. Open Monday-Saturday 1-11 pm, Sunday 1-6 pm. Downtown at Ave. Cinco de Mayo 10 (Metro: Bellas Artes). Phone 5512-8959.

Mauna Loa—A delightful Polynesian nightclub. Live music for dancing, and a Polynesian floor show Tuesday-Friday 10 pm and 10:30 pm, Saturday at 11:45 pm and Sunday morning at 10:15 am and 11:45 am. Very popular spot. Open daily 7:30 am-1 am. Reservations required. M$60 cover charge. Most major credit cards. Ave. San Jeronimo 240 (Metro: Copilco). Phone 5616-2777.

Mezzanote—A lively restaurant and bar serving international fare, but especially delicious Italian dishes. Disco music in the evening, with occasional live music. Customers are encouraged to dance near their tables. Monday-Wednesday 1:30 pm-midnight, Thursday-Saturday 1:30 pm-2 am, Sunday 1-6 pm. Presidente Masaryk 407, Polanco. Phone 5282-0130.

Restaurant Chez'ar—In Hotel Aristos. Live music for dancing (ranging from the rumba to the fox trot). Monday-Thursday 8 pm-2 am, Friday and Saturday 8:30 pm-2 am. A restaurant and bar with a cover charge of M$50. A meal is served for M$75. Most major credit cards. Paseo de la Reforma 276, La Zona Rosa. Phone 5211-0112.

Salon Paris—Popular with gay men and women. Dancing to tropical music Friday and Saturday nights. Monday-Saturday 10 am-midnight. No credit cards. In the Historic Center at Donceles 3. Phone 5510-9787.

Shelty—An attractive, wood-paneled English pub in the Nikko Hotel. Daily 5 pm-1 am. No cover. Most major credit cards. Campos Eliseos 204 (facing Chapultepec Park). Phone 5280-1111.

LIVE MUSIC

Bar Jorongo—In the Sheraton Maria Isabel Hotel, it's been one of the city's popular nightspots for more than 25 years. Features typical Mexican music played by big-name mariachis. Nightly 6 pm-2 am. Cover charge M$45. Most major credit cards. Paseo de la Reforma 325 (across from La Zona Rosa). Phone 5207-3933.

New Orleans—A classic jazz bar where musically talented guests are invited to join in. Tuesday-Sunday 1 pm-1 am (music starts at 8 pm). Cover M$25 on Sunday, M$35 Tuesday-Thursday and M$50 on Friday and Saturday. Most major credit cards. About 6 mi/9 km south of downtown in San Angel, at Ave. Revolucion 1655 (Metro: Viveros). Phone 5550-1908.

Plaza Garibaldi—This is the square where people go to hear (and sing along with) mariachi musicians dressed in black, silver-studded suits and large hats. The mariachis wander the plaza until the wee hours of the morning. You can request a song for around M$75. Bars and restaurants line the square, which comes alive after 11 pm. Downtown on Eje Central between Calle Republica de Honduras and Calle Republica de Peru (Metro: Garibaldi). Do not take street cabs there. Call a cab company and have the taxi wait for you.

Recreation

The weather in Mexico City is delightful for outdoor recreation—walking, jogging, golf, tennis, paddleboating—if the air-contamination level is not too high. (It's high in the winter months, especially in January.) Check the weather section in the local newspaper for pollution levels. If the levels are high, get your exercise in before 8 am or after 6 pm, when the levels go down. Keep in mind that Mexico City is at a high altitude, and that it can be dangerous to indulge in very strenuous activity in polluted conditions.

There are jogging trails in Chapultepec Park (though it's best not to jog there alone), and you can run on most avenues of the city very early in the morning. You can rent bicycles for M$50-$60 an hour in Chapultepec Park Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm (Avenida Heroico Colegio Militar, in the first section of the park, no phone). Most golf and tennis clubs are private, but some hotels offer guest privileges. If you enjoy swimming, make sure you stay in one of the hotels that has a pool because the public pools are very far from the city center.

GOLF

Golf is a year-round sport in Mexico City, but unfortunately, all the clubs are private and restricted to members and guests.

Bella Vista Golf Club—Guests staying at the Sheraton Maria Isabel Hotel and the Camino Real Hotel enjoy the privilege of playing at this 18-hole course off Queretaro Highway 57, about a half-hour drive from the hotel district. On Tuesday-Friday, greens fees are M$950; on Saturday and Sunday, M$1,200. For further information, call the club at 5360-3501 or 5360-3507.

HEALTH CLUBS

Club San Francisco—Aerobics, weight lifting, massages and a sauna (sauna for men only). Monday-Friday 6:30 am-11 pm, Saturday 9 am-4 pm. Admission fee is M$40. Panuco 207 (across Paseo de la Reforma from La Zona Rosa). Phone 5525-0936.

Ego's Gym—Nautilus equipment, weights, aerobics, karate, steam baths. Monday-Friday 7 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-2 pm. M$50. Tlaxcala 46a (near La Zona Rosa). Phone 5564-1905.

Mexico City Calendar

INTRODUCTION

Those traveling to Mexico City will find symphony orchestras, a national ballet company, a national opera company and numerous theaters (where a knowledge of Spanish will help). Museums are both plentiful and impressive, and most are free on Sunday and closed on Monday. We recommend Ballet Folklorico's performances of traditional Mexican dance at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. Perhaps the most colorful attractions are the traditional religious festivals occurring throughout the year.

The weekly Tiempo Libre is a good source of information concerning special exhibits, concerts and events (available from most newsstands on Thursday), and the Mexico City Office of Tourism (Infotur) may also provide suggestions: phone 525-9380 or 525-9382.

To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside Mexico, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by Mexico's country code, 52, and Mexico City's city code, 5.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

OCTOBER 2000

1-8 Oct—Art Exhibit. "Modern Art of Mexico: 1900-1950." Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, Justo Sierra 16 (Historic Center). Phone 5789-2505. Concludes 8 Oct.

1-29 Oct—Photography Exhibit. "Polaridades." Museo de Arte Moderno, Paseo de la Reforma at Gandhi (Chapultepec Park). Phone 553-6233. Concludes 29 Oct.

1-29 Oct—Art Exhibit. "From Impressionism to the Vanguard." Paintings from the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection. Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez at Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Phone 5521-9251. Concludes 29 Oct.

1, 4, 8, 11, 15, 18, 22, 25, 29 Oct—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

12 Oct—Dia de la Raza. Public holiday which marks the mixing of Mexico's native and European races.

Throughout October—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June 2001.

Throughout October—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July 2001.

NOVEMBER 2000

Early-Late November—Bullfights. Thousands of fans cheer for their favorite toreros as the bullfighters take on aggravated bulls. 4:30 pm. Plaza de Toros Monumental Mexico, Augusto Rodin 241. Phone 563-3961. Continues through late April 2001.

1 Nov—Dia de Todos los Santos. All Saints' Day, public and religious holiday. Most offices and businesses are closed on this day and the following day. Families honor their departed loved ones with elaborate altars in their homes.

1, 5, 8, 12, 15, 19, 22, 26, 29 Nov—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

2 Nov—Dia de los Muertos. All Souls' Day, or Day of the Dead. Public holiday and religious holiday. Most offices and businesses are closed. Candies and toys left on the altars for angelitos (small children who have died) are consumed by living children. Skeleton-shaped sweets and breads, wire and clay skeletons, and masses of flowers fill the markets. At night, candlelight processions make their way to cemeteries, where candlelit picnics and music pay tribute to the deceased. A particularly well-known celebration takes place in Mixquic, outside Mexico City.

20 Nov—Revolution Day. Public holiday. Parades, including one beginning traditionally at 10 am at the Zocalo, commemorate the beginning of the Revolution of 1910-1920.

Throughout November—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June 2001.

Throughout November—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July 2001.

DECEMBER 2000

3, 6, 10, 13, 17, 20, 24, 27, 31 Dec—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

12 Dec—Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Public and religious holiday. Millions make the pilgrimage to the huge Basilica of Guadalupe, shrine of Mexico's patron saint. Within the basilica, musicians and dancers perform as the pious approach, many on their knees. La Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, Tepeyec Hill, northern edge of Mexico City.

25 Dec—Dia de Navidad. Christmas, religious and public holiday. Families usually celebrate at home.

Throughout December—Bullfights. Thousands of fans cheer for their favorite toreros as the bullfighters take on aggravated bulls. 4:30 pm. Plaza de Toros Monumental Mexico, Augusto Rodin 241. Phone 563-3961. Continues through late April 2001.

Throughout December—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June 2001.

Throughout December—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July 2001.

JANUARY 2001

1 Jan—New Year's Day. Public holiday with religious observances, parties and fireworks.

3, 7, 10, 14, 17, 21, 24, 28, 31 Jan—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

6 Jan—Dia de los Reyes Magos. Epiphany, public and religious holiday. Children place their shoes where the Three Kings can find them and then fill them with treats. A special ring-shaped bread, a rosca, is served. A small plastic figure of the Baby Jesus is baked into it. Whoever gets the figure is obliged to host a party for all present on Candlemas Day, 2 Feb.

Throughout January—Bullfights. Thousands of fans cheer for their favorite toreros as the bullfighters take on aggravated bulls. 4:30 pm. Plaza de Toros Monumental Mexico, Augusto Rodin 241. Phone 563-3961. Continues through late April.

Throughout January—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June.

Throughout January—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July.

FEBRUARY 2001

2 Feb—Candlemas Day. Special masses, processions, bullfights and fiestas mark this day (40 days after Christmas), on which Mary took Jesus to the temple.

4, 7, 11, 14, 18, 21, 25, 28 Feb—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

5 Feb—Constitution Day. Public holiday commemorating the constitutions of 1857 and 1917, which still govern Mexico.

Late February—Dance. A special performance of Swan Lake is given at the amphitheater in Chapultepec Park Tuesday-Saturday at 8 pm. Tickets may be purchased at the Palacio de Bellas Artes daily 11 am-7 pm. Continues through mid April.

Throughout February—Bullfights. Thousands of fans cheer for their favorite toreros as the bullfighters take on aggravated bulls. 4:30 pm. Plaza de Toros Monumental Mexico, Augusto Rodin 241. Phone 563-3961. Continues through late April.

Throughout February—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June.

Throughout February—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July.

MARCH 2001

4, 7, 11, 14, 18, 21, 25, 28 Mar—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

21 Mar—Birthday of Benito Juarez. Public holiday honoring the leader of the Mexican Revolution.

Throughout March—Bullfights. Thousands of fans cheer for their favorite toreros as the bullfighters take on aggravated bulls. 4:30 pm. Plaza de Toros Monumental Mexico, Augusto Rodin 241. Phone 563-3961. Continues through late April.

Throughout March—Dance. A special performance of Swan Lake is given at the amphitheater in Chapultepec Park Tuesday-Saturday at 8 pm. Tickets may be purchased at the Palacio de Bellas Artes daily 11 am-7 pm. Continues through mid April.

Throughout March—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June.

Throughout March—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July.

APRIL 2001

Early-Mid April—Dance. A special performance of Swan Lake is given at the amphitheater in Chapultepec Park Tuesday-Saturday at 8 pm. Tickets may be purchased at the Palacio de Bellas Artes daily 11 am-7 pm. Concludes mid April.

Early-Late April—Sherbet Fair. The town of Tulyehualco celebrates Holy Week by serving up a blizzard of sherbet treats. They come in a variety of flavors you wouldn't expect of traditional snow cones—soursop, tequila, prickly pear, cucumber, avocado, mole and carnitas. Also, religious celebrations, carnival rides, folk dancing and crafts shows. Tulyehualco is approximately 12 mi/19 km southeast of Mexico City, in the Xochimilco District.

1, 4, 8, 11, 15, 18, 22, 25, 29 Apr—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

12-15 Apr—Semana Santa. Holy Week, public and religious holidays. Most businesses are closed from Thursday to Easter Sunday, but some businesses close down the entire week before Easter. On Good Friday, a pageant depicting the crucifixion of Christ is presented on Cerro de la Estrella (Hill of the Star), in a section of the city called Ixtapalapa. (You'll need to brave large crowds.)

Mid April—Xochimilco Festival. Four-day event held annually two weeks before Easter. This festival dates to precolonial times, when Mexicans honored the goddess of flowers (Xochipilli) and the goddess of dance (Maculxochitl) to ensure good harvests. A girl is crowned "La Flor Mas Bella del Ejico" (most beautiful) and presides over the lead barge of a parade floating up and down the canals. Also, competitions in canoeing, horticulture and carnival cars. Xochimilco, known for its canals and floating gardens, is 12 mi/19 km south of Mexico City. The phone number of the Xochimilco tourism office is 676-0810.

Throughout April—Bullfights. Thousands of fans cheer for their favorite toreros as the bullfighters take on aggravated bulls. 4:30 pm. Plaza de Toros Monumental Mexico, Augusto Rodin 241. Phone 563-3961. Concludes late April.

Throughout April—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June.

Throughout April—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July.

MAY 2001

Early-Late May—Professional Baseball. The Diablos Rojos and Tigres play home games at Parque del Seguro Social on Avenida Cuauhtemoc (where it intersects the Viaducto Miguel Aleman). Metro: Centro Medico. Tickets can be bought at the stadium before the game or through Ticketmaster, phone 5325-9000. Information: Diablos Rojos, phone 639-8722; Tigres, phone 584-0249. Continues through late August.

Early-Late May—Nopal Fiesta. An annual fair showcasing the many uses of the prickly pear. Food, folk dancing, fireworks and crafts. From the southeastern suburb of Milpa Alta to the southern part of Mexico City.

1 May—Labor Day. Public holiday. In the morning, a huge workers' parade starts off from the Zocalo. The evening is reserved for more observances—dancing and fireworks. Almost all shops, restaurants and businesses are closed.

2, 6, 9, 13, 16, 20, 23, 27, 30 May—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

3 May—Dia de la Santa Cruz. Construction workers place decorated crosses against unfinished structures. Picnics and fireworks follow.

5 May—Cinco de Mayo. This national holiday celebrates the defeat of the French army at Puebla in 1862, with dances, parties, fireworks and food. Festivities are especially colorful in Puebla, 81 mi/130 km (around two hours by bus) southeast of Mexico City.

10 May—Dia de la Madre. Mother's Day is an important holiday, with many businesses closed for all or part of the day. Travelers should be aware that roads and restaurants will be crowded because Mexican families traditionally take moms out for a meal.

Throughout May—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June.

Throughout May—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July.

JUNE 2001

3, 6, 10, 13, 17, 20, 24, 27 Jun—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

24 Jun—St. John the Baptist Day. Fairs and religious festivities. Revelers dunk each other as a practical joke.

29 Jun—St. Peter and St. Paul Day. Local fiestas pay homage to the two saints, particularly in San Pedro Atocpan, on the southern edge of Mexico City.

Throughout June—Professional Baseball. The Diablos Rojos and Tigres play home games at Parque del Seguro Social on Avenida Cuauhtemoc (where it intersects the Viaducto Miguel Aleman). Metro: Centro Medico. Tickets can be bought at the stadium before the game or through Ticketmaster, phone 5325-9000. Information: Diablos Rojos, phone 639-8722; Tigres, phone 584-0249. Continues through late August.

Throughout June—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Concludes late June.

Throughout June—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July.

JULY 2001

1, 4, 8, 11, 15, 18, 22, 25, 29 Jul—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

16 Jul—Feast of Our Lady of Carmen. A fair and flower show is held in the San Angel section of Mexico City.

29 Jul—Dia de Santa Maria. This feast day is celebrated in the southeastern suburb of Milpa Alta with Aztec dances and staged battles between the Moors and Christians.

Throughout July—Professional Baseball. The Diablos Rojos and Tigres play home games at Parque del Seguro Social on Avenida Cuauhtemoc (where it intersects the Viaducto Miguel Aleman). Metro: Centro Medico. Tickets can be bought at the stadium before the game or through Ticketmaster, phone 5325-9000. Information: Diablos Rojos, phone 639-8722; Tigres, phone 584-0249. Continues through late August.

Throughout July—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Concludes late July.

AUGUST 2001

1, 5, 8, 12, 15, 19, 22, 26, 29 Aug—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

2 Aug—Cuauhtemoc Day. The last Aztec emperor is honored with dances and ceremonies at Cuauhtemoc Circle on Paseo de la Reforma.

15 Aug—Feast of the Assumption. Religious holiday. Services are held nationwide. Ancient dances are performed in the southeastern suburb of Milpa Alta.

Throughout August—Professional Baseball. The Diablos Rojos and Tigres play home games at Parque del Seguro Social on Avenida Cuauhtemoc (where it intersects the Viaducto Miguel Aleman). Metro: Centro Medico. Tickets can be bought at the stadium before the game or through Ticketmaster, phone 5325-9000. Information: Diablos Rojos, phone 639-8722; Tigres, phone 584-0249. Concludes late August.

SEPTEMBER 2001

Early-Late September—Concerts. The Mexico City Philharmonic Orchestra performs weekly in Sala Olin Yolitzi, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, about 6 mi/9 km south of downtown). Phone 5606-8933 or 5606-6089. Continues through late June 2002.

Early-Late September—Concerts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs frequently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas. Phone 5512-2593. Continues through late July 2002.

1 Sep—State of the Nation Address. Public holiday.

2, 5, 9, 12, 16, 19, 23, 26, 30 Sep—Dance. The internationally acclaimed troupe Ballet Folkorico performs Sunday morning at 9:30 am, Sunday evening at 8:30 pm and Wednesday evening at 8:30 pm. Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Avenida Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas (downtown). Purchase tickets at the Bellas Artes box office (phone 5512-2593) or through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000).

15 Sep—Prelude to Independence Day. The Zocalo fills with throngs of people waiting to hear the Mexican president reenact Father Hidalgo's 1810 grito, the call for independence from Spain. (This takes place at 11 pm.) The crowd responds "Viva Mexico!" and the fireworks, mariachi music and all-night partying begin. Wear old clothes: Throwing flour-filled eggs at people is traditional. Most businesses are closed.

16 Sep—Independence Day. Public holiday. A three-hour military parade begins at the Zocalo and ends at the angel monument on Paseo de la Reforma. Most businesses are closed.